Day 1 - Prague
27 December 2024
And so begins another trip with an early flight time. Going to bed at 19:00 doesn’t present any problems in terms of nodding off and I am awake at 00:45 feeling pretty fresh. There are cans of Relentless in the car, which I procured earlier the previous day as a contingency to nodding off on the A55.
There is a lot of fog and it persists almost all the way to the airport. However, there is next to no traffic and I arrive at the airport in good time. Meet and Greet is as seamless as ever and I walk the short hop, skip and a jump to Terminal 1. Security is busy but the queue is moving reasonably quickly. A cursory glance at their target displays shows they are performing well today. It doesn’t take very long before someone mentions Carry On, a nod to the new Taron Egerton film (Google it or check out Netflix, I can’t be arsed with a synopsis).
As usual I have forgotten something and, as usual, it is something electrical. I have left my charger cable in the car and my power bank at home. The latter wouldn’t usually bother me but there are potentially prolonged durations without a charging socket so I head into a shop that caters for dullards like me and walk out with replacements. As luck would have it there is an offer on so, at least I get the cable at half price. But then I open the power bank box and find that already has a cable (why wouldn’t it?)
Passing through security, for me, signifies the holiday can now start and I head for the bar. It is not normal for me to partake at 4 in the morning but I am heading for the drinking capital of Europe. Also I’m not driving, for once, and have been ‘encouraged’ on a WhatsApp chat. I happily down 2 pints of Mahou as my body didn’t reject the first, and you can’t just have one, can you?
It is soon boarding time and that presents no issues other than when I am instructed, not asked, to sit by one of the emergency exit and assume marshall duties. I briefly wonder how I would react if I actually had to get the door open and get people out but, just as quickly, the thought from my mind and don my headphones. The exit seats have got more leg room, which far outweighs any potentially inadequacy in my door opening capabilities.
The captain advises us that, due to fog, both here and in Prague, there will be short delays in take-off and landing. I wonder whether the whole continent is shrouded in fog and we’re all going to suddenly lose our minds and reaching for the nearest fire axe! Despite the threat of delays, we still manage to get wheels down at Vaclav Havel airport just 20 minutes later than scheduled.
Passport control is busy but, again, is efficient and the queue moves quickly. I head outside to find the bus to town. The journey is actually a bus and metro combo but they can both be done on the same ticket, which costs a mere 40CZK. There are a few options but I go for the number 59 bus and then half a dozen stops on Metro line 3 before tumbling out into the old town.
It is 16 years since I was last in Prague so immediately head for the old town square for a nostalgic nod of the head and to take a few photos before deciding that breakfast is more important than nostalgia.
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| Jan Hus Monument |
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| Astronomical Clock |
I find the Svejk restaurant, which is very busy at first glance but they do have room upstairs. I settle down in the warmth and decide on a ham omelette that Gwen would be proud of accompanied with a cup of tea.
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| O!! Where's that omelette, Gwen? |
The bill comes with a cover charge (that the waitress did confirm with me before I ordered) plus pre-loaded 10% tip (I will discover in the coming days that this is a common practise). I don’t grumble about this as the service has been good and I would probably tip more that 10%.
Next up is the mandatory stroll across Karluv Most, The Charles Bridge. Not so much a stroll as it is heaving, more of a meandering stagger. This is my 4th trip to the city and I have never seen it so busy. Because of the crowds, I don't spend too long on the bridge, and make my way up the hill to the castle. Even though it's a beast of a climb, there are plenty of people up here as well. Worth the effort for the views over the old town, even if it is shrouded in freezing fog.
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| Bit busy!! |
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| Bit foggy!! |
I stroll back down a different route and hunt out the Dancing House for a stock photo before ambling back to the old town to find some beer. On the way I grab a flyer for a classical recital that raised an eyebrow earlier.
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| The Dancing House |
I go looking for the Kosicka cellar bar to reminisce my first visit here. Sadly it is no longer operating, but I do find the Prague Beer Museum, which gladly sells me 3 of their own IPAs in half litre pots for 3 quid! We are all happy. During the 1.5ltr quaff fest, I use the QR code on the flyer and book a seat for €40. Bit steep for an hour but I'm not in town very often.
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| Decent bar and cheap beer!! |
I leave the museum and head for the venue. Sadly it is now dark and I have the orientation capacity of one who has had 3 PBM IPAs!! I eventually correct my navigation error and turn up a mere 5 minutes late. I have to stand outside the door whilst a tune finishes and I can burst in during the applause. The enforced tactic almost works but I slide my chair in 1 second after the applause and the chair squeak and disapproving gasp are equally audible. No matter, I settle in to almost an hour of wonderful music and soprano singing in a beautiful setting. I literally cry about a dozen times.
My train doesn't leave until 22:00 so I look for a way to pass 3 hrs before heading to the station. I find a bar that has outdoor seating with heaters and blankets with 1ltr Staropramen at a price that does make you shudder but in line with the location. I settle down for a good session of people watching. The people watching session serves its purpose and passes the time well. Nothing out of the ordinary but it's good to watch anyway. Like an episode of Friends!!
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| Decent bar and pricey beer |
The route to the station is nothing like I remember in terms of sights and distance. I expect a long walk up Wenceslas Square but Google takes me along a few side streets and gets me there quite quickly. The station is not as I remember either. It is now very big and very modern. It's like the Russians had never been anywhere near the place! My platform eventually appears on the board and after working out where that actually is I head for and board my home for the next 10 and a half hours.
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| Prague Railway Station - Shiny! |
I am fortunate to land the bottom bunk of 3 and sort myself out ready for sleep. My cabin mates soon turn up but I am ensconced in my bed now so make no effort at small talk. After a quick visit to brush my teeth and empty my bladder, I settle down and let sleep take me.
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